The Best Electronic Keypad Door Lock (2024)

We’ve been covering locks for years, including traditional keyed locks and smart locks. We’ve spoken to locksmiths, security experts, and manufacturers. We’ve installed locks, tested them, and even picked them to arrive at the best recommendations.

An electronic lock opens via a code entered into a keypad or touchscreen. It’s keyless convenience but stops short of device connectivity. “They’re not for someone looking to automate their entire life,” Leimer told us. They’re for people who “understand the value of being able to assign codes or not carry a key or they may even just like the look and feel of having the electronics on their door.”

These locks typically accept around 15 to 20 codes, so you could have one number for your family, one for a dog walker, and another for a plumber who is working on your house. Codes can be added or deleted at any time. There is no longer a need to give someone a key (that could be copied) or to hide one under the mat. So, for example, a code could be given to a contractor while work is going on, but once the job is done, the code can be deleted. There are also benefits for those with kids too young to handle the responsibility of keeping a key safe and in their possession.

Smart locks expand this control to your phone or device. With these models you have an easier code-changing interface, and you can add or delete codes from anywhere via an app and monitor the use of the lock. If these added features are appealing to you, we have a guide to smart locks.

We began our selection process by narrowing the field based on security ratings and manufacturer reputation. After seeing the finalists firsthand, ease of use proved to be a major factor in our ultimate decisions. Here are the criteria:

Security grade of 2 or higher: As a basic requirement, all of the locks we considered had an American National Standards Institute (ANSI) security grade of either 1 (the highest) or 2 (out of a possible 3). Both are considered acceptable for residential use, and these ratings, sometimes listed as a Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association (BHMA) rating, are at times described as an ANSI/BHMA rating. This grading is based on testing involving durability, security, and finish. To attain Grade 1, a lock must withstand 1 million open/close cycles and hold up against 10 strikes from 75 pounds of force. Grade 2 is 800,000 open/closes and five strikes from 75 pounds of force.

Reputable manufacturer: With the security of your home at stake, we only considered locks from long-standing reputable lock manufacturers. We wanted a recommendation that would have good availability, reliable customer service, and a credible warranty. That meant avoiding unknown brands with rudimentary websites and no apparent phone number. Fortunately, even limiting our search to models priced reasonably (under $200, approximately), we had multiple options from three established companies: Yale, Kwikset, and Schlage.

Easy to use: On paper, our finalists looked fairly similar: All were programmable with roughly 15 to 20 codes, all had some kind of a backlit display, and so on. The true distinctions emerged in firsthand tests, when we could look beyond the spec sheets and see what it would be like to live with these.

For our testing, we installed multiple locks on a single 2-by-10-foot board and used them daily for more than a month. Using this test rig (rather than actual doors) allowed us to easily run tests side by side in a standardized setting, removing the variety of fit and operation issues common to exterior doors, many of which can affect any lock’s performance. In tests, we looked for the models with the simplest programming process and the most customization of the options, like volume and the timed auto-lock setting. We noted how loud each lock was and how the buttons felt and responded to our fingers, with and without gloves on. We also wanted a model that had clear and easy-to-reference instructions.

Installation of these locks is simple if it’s replacing an existing deadbolt and the holes are already drilled. All of the locks have options for 2⅜ and 2¾ backsets, the standard dimensions for door locks. The only major difference between installing these and a traditional deadbolt is a wire fed through the door to connect the interior and exterior portions. If this is a new installation and you’re concerned about drilling through a door, we recommend a lock installation kit like the Milwaukee 49-22-4037 (which we used for our own testing). This will ensure that your holes are correctly lined up in the proper places.

We specifically looked at deadbolts, but most of the models we tested have handled versions. So if your home does not have a deadbolt, you can still swap in the electronic locks that we recommend.

Of all the locks we looked at, the Yale YRD256 Assure Lock SL is the easiest to program, the most customizable, and the nicest looking. It has a security grade of 2 and is the only model that uses voice prompts during programming, eliminating the need to constantly refer back to the directions. The volume and auto-lock feature both have multiple settings, and the movement of the deadbolt is quieter and quicker than with others. Without a bulky keyway, the exterior portion of the lock is barely bigger than a ½-inch-thick credit card and has a nice metallic trim, making the Yale the sleekest and most discreet of the tested models. Last, the Yale can be upgraded to a device-controlled smart lock with the addition of a separately purchased smart module. This is not possible with the other locks. Typically around $150, it’s more expensive than most, but it also offers much more convenience.

The Yale has a very nice interface. When not in use, the touchscreen stays blank and is activated by drawing a few fingers across it or tapping it with the back of a hand. This initial step keeps the screen constantly smudged, so fingerprints don’t just sit over the code numbers. When activated, the backlit numbers are easy to read and have a nice sensitivity. We rarely missed a number or hit the wrong one, even while wearing leather work gloves. While pressing the numbers, a tone sounds and a voice occasionally chimes in (“Time expired”). None of the other models have a voice, and the beep on the Yale is much nicer than the Kwikset harsh digital tone. If you find these sounds distracting, they can be muted.

Programming the Yale lock is easy. It’s all done through the front keypad, and the voice prompts you through the process, similar to an automated phone menu. It’s helpful to keep the instructions nearby, but we used them less and less as time went on. Other models, specifically the Kwiksets, were much harder to program and included taking apart the interior portion of the lock to access a programming button and tiny switches. Because the Yale programming is so quick and simple, we found it easier to experiment with different settings for a few days at a time in order to find the ones that best suited us.

The Yale also offers the most customization. It has three volume settings (high, low, and mute), three language settings (English, Spanish, and French), and a number of auto-lock settings, which lock the door behind you after a pre-established duration. This feature can be disabled or set to 30 seconds, 60 seconds, two minutes or three minutes. This gives a little time if you’re bringing groceries or packages in from the car or if you have kids in tow that slowly wander in the house behind you like little lost ducklings. The Schlage models don’t have this feature at all, and the Kwikets can only be set to 30 seconds.

The Yale takes four AA batteries. If they start to get low, the lock gives a number of warnings. But still, dead batteries are a possibility if the warnings are ignored or if the lock is on a rarely used second home. Yale also warns of “extreme high and low temperatures” shortening battery life. Like many electronic locks, the Yale has no keyway, so the workaround is that on the underside of the lock are two 9-volt battery terminals. A battery pressed against these can power the lock enough to enter a code and get inside.

A unique feature of the Yale is that it can be upgraded to a smart lock with the installation of a small module on the inside portion of the lock (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, HomeKit, Z-Wave, or Z-Wave Plus, depending on your system and needs). With these smart features installed, the Yale lock still stands above the competition and is the kind of lock we’d include in our guide to the best smart locks. The other electronic locks are “as is,” so an upgrade to smart technology requires the purchase of an entirely new lock. This feature makes the Yale a nice stepping stone if you like the idea of an electronic lock and feel you may want to upgrade to a smart version at a later date.

Last, the Yale has the most streamlined look of any lock we tested. This is subjective, and the logo on the interior side is a little too noticeable for our tastes, but what can’t be disputed is that the exterior portion of the Yale has the lowest profile and the smallest footprint. The rounded edges and a stylish metallic trim add to the nice look. The only close competitor in this department is the Kwikset Obsidian, but that lock doesn’t compare with the Yale in most other areas.

At around $150, the Yale is on the upper middle end of the price range. It is available in brass, bronze, or satin nickel.

The instructions for installing the Yale are clear and contain all the needed info, but we found it a little annoying that they’re printed on a single massive sheet of paper and folded like a road map. For something that may need to be referred to from time to time, folding and unfolding this gigantic sheet to get to the programming section is tedious. We would have much preferred the instructions in booklet form or even a separate little programming cheat-sheet card to tuck in the kitchen drawer. Oddly, only one model we tested, the Schlage BE375, has booklet instructions. This is only a minor gripe and doesn’t take away from all of the elements we liked about the Yale lock.

If the Yale Assure is not available or if you’re not ready to go with a fully automated electronic lock, we like the Schlage BE365 Keypad Deadbolt. With this lock, the keypad only unlocks the ability to use the deadbolt, it does not withdraw or extend the deadbolt itself—you still need to twist the thumb turn manually. The Schlage was the only lock we tested with the highest security grade of 1, and it has a traditional keyway that can open the door, in case the battery dies or if that’s your preference. It’s a bulky lock and has none of the streamlined fit and finish of the Yale, but the tactile nature of the keypad buttons and the manual deadbolt are satisfying, and we appreciated the added security of the higher ANSI grade.

The Schlage lock is not as automated as the rest. Once the code is entered, the lock makes a little click, which frees the deadbolt so it can then be controlled by the thumb turn. The code doesn’t retract the deadbolt automatically, like on the Yale and most of the others. Schlage’s Leimer explained the appeal of the manual lock: “A lot of people like the idea of knowing that their deadbolt actually locked because they turned the bolt themselves.” During testing we felt the nice satisfaction of manually engaging with the deadbolt.

The BE365 has a keyway, so there is a traditional backup if the battery dies (or the key can just be used like a normal lock). So, in a way, the Schlage is like a traditional deadbolt, but with an added keypad option. It does not have the 9-volt terminals, like the Yale.

The buttons on the Schlage are large and pronounced, and it’s easy to tell when one has been pressed. They’re spaced apart enough that bulky gloves don’t pose an issue. In a low-light situation, the top “Schlage” button activates a backlight to the numbers.

Like the Yale lock, the programming is all done from the front keypad. The Schlage comes with a randomly generated programming code, which can be changed once the lock is set up. Programming is relatively simple—but with no voice prompts, the instructions are more necessary than with the Yale. Unfortunately, Schlage only includes the bare minimum programming instructions with the lock. You have to go to the FAQ page on the company’s website to get the full programming instructions (PDF). This lock would greatly benefit from an included set of complete programming instructions, preferably separate from the installation instructions.

Of all the tested models, the Schlage BE365 is the least streamlined. Even Leimer mentioned this to us: “It’s big and bulky and beefy looking.” The keyway is integrated into the thumb turn, creating a large protrusion out the front of the lock.

We also tested the Schlage BE375, which shares the manual thumb turn with the Schlage BE365. It has a more streamlined look, mostly due to the lack of a keyway (it uses a 9-volt battery as the backup). The downside is that the keypad is difficult to use and it’s easy to miss a button, which in our testing forced us to start over with the code. It also has a security grade of 2, which still meets our requirements but is lower than the other Schlage.

We tested three Kwiksets:Obsidian, SmartCode 915, and SmartCode 913. While they differ from one another in the keypad/touchscreen style and the backup option (one has the 9-volt terminals, two have the keyway), the guts and functions are all similar. Programming these is much more difficult than with both the Yale and the Schlage. To add or delete codes or change any options, the cover needs to be removed from the interior portion of the lock, which requires taking out two very small set screws, which are just begging to be dropped (we lost one). This reveals a programming button (to add or delete codes) and a series of almost microscopic switches to alter the other functions, like volume control or to disable the auto lock. These switches are so small, we used a toothpick to move them, and even that felt bulky.

Beyond this, the Kwikset models don’t have the versatility of the Yale lock. The volume is either off or on, and the auto-lock can only be set to 30 seconds, and not up to three minutes like with the Yale. The deadbolt is also slightly delayed compared with the Yale, taking two seconds to fully engage or retract, as opposed to just one. Last, the movement of the deadbolt is much louder than with the Yale, emitting a whine as it moves.